Gastronomy in Corona times – the crisis as an opportunity? Interview with Lucki Maurer
Germany and the world are in an exceptional situation. The corona virus pandemic is a tough test for the economy and especially for the catering industry. Although bars and restaurants are allowed to reopen in some federal states under strict health regulations, many businesses still fear for their existence. But there are also role models that show how companies can face the crisis with optimism and how various measures and ideas can mitigate serious financial consequences. Cooperation, not competition, is the order of the day. An exchange between restaurateurs, manufacturers and retailers can be an important support, especially now. We were able to get "Germany's meat pope" Lucki Maurer for an exclusive interview. He tells us how he is doing in the current situation and what options he is taking to get the crisis under control.
Ludwig “Lucki” Maurer is one of the exceptional chefs and most experienced meat experts in Germany.
The STOI shop will have everything for the discerning griller.
Ludwig "Lucki" Maurer is one of the exceptional chefs and most experienced meat experts in Germany. He shares his knowledge in his award-winning books, on TV, social media and at various events. His pop-up restaurant, the STOI, is only open for special events, workshops and cooking courses, which he personally leads. The STOI also has a Wagyu factory. Lucki Maurer has been breeding the Japanese noble cattle for over 10 years. The farm now includes over 60 animals. He is also very successful as a caterer with his MEATing Point. As a member of the "JRE Genussnetz" he supports small factories in Germany and brings them together with young top chefs.
INTERVIEW
The STOI Summer Festival and the Culinary Festival 2020, like all major events, had to be cancelled. The STOI will also remain closed until further notice. These are difficult times. Very few catering establishments have enough reserves; they are urgently dependent on their guests and daily operations. How are you and your team doing at the moment? What does your new working day look like in the Corona crisis?
LM: We have postponed the STOI Summer Festival and the 2020 Culinary Festival until next year. Demand was very high beforehand. A total of 2,000 tickets were sold for the festivals, which will now simply remain valid for next year. The visitors accept this, and almost all of them want to keep their tickets. Only two visitors complained and rudely demanded their money back, but we can do without them at the festival (laughs) . It hurts me much more with my catering company. I have my employees there. I had to register short-time work for my team, but I haven't laid off a single employee. The marginal employees are also currently still employed. They take on work on my farm, so there is always a lot to do in spring. The crisis has also given me more time to look after my farm, and I spend a lot of time on the farm. The fences have to be repaired, the animals have to be looked after and their stock looked after. The young animals are born in spring. So I'm fully occupied and have a distraction. It's nice not to have to think about the corona virus all the time and to be able to devote more time to these tasks. I also enjoy cooking more for myself and the family instead of for others for a change. I'm also currently writing my fifth book. And then of course there's my metal band "Seasons in Black". What hurts me most as a chef and musician is the cancellation of the music festivals. Normally we would have taken over the artist catering at the SUMMER BREEZE Open Air again this year. I always look forward to this highlight. The cancellation of the concerts by Guns N' Roses and Rage Against the Machine also hit me really hard. I could do without visits to the hairdresser (laughs).
You have been successfully breeding Wagyu cattle according to EU organic guidelines for over 10 years. Schergengruber Wagyu meat is available through your trading partners. What impact has the crisis had on the trade and sale of the premium meat?
LM: Sales are going very well at the moment. People are now at home most of the time, of course, and have time to cook and grill. Of course, it can be something special, and our Wagyu meat can be obtained from our retailers in various ways. So the crisis is having a rather positive impact on the current sales of our products.
At the moment, there is a discussion about easing the Corona measures for restaurants. The first restaurants are already allowed to reopen under certain conditions. There is a lot of talk about the number of guests and suitable hygiene and protective measures. Many potential guests are nevertheless uncertain and believe that major relaxations are premature. What is your position on the current debate and how do you think a gradual return to normal restaurant operations can work? Is there already a concept of measures for the STOI and, if so, how is this communicated to guests?
LM: I take the lockdown very seriously and have decided to keep the STOI closed for the foreseeable future, even if opening it under certain conditions would theoretically be possible. Our offer is not essential to the system, but represents a certain luxury. At the STOI, people don't just get culinary delights; our focus is on the special experience for the guests and it must stay that way. But that only works all the way or nothing! It's hard to imagine a fine 8-course meal with protective masks, a 2-meter safety distance or disinfection rules. In addition, nobody wants half of the people at events to be uninvited. Of course, we also have alcohol to drink, which would be an additional challenge for consistent compliance with regulations. All of these measures would greatly reduce the guests' enjoyment and I definitely don't want that! Even though I have suffered enormous losses in sales due to the cancellation of events until the end of August, I remain consistent and confident. But it doesn't just hurt me financially. I'm always very happy when I can host a nice event, such as a wedding with international guests. If this is cancelled, it will be tragic for everyone. I put my heart and soul into planning our events. In my opinion, gradual openings under strict conditions are a drop in the ocean for many restaurateurs. I think the current easing of restrictions is mainly intended to prevent mutiny. Of course, the desperate situation is well understood. People are happy to cling to any straw. Of course, we have also thought about only opening outdoors. We have been planning a BBQ lounge and picnics with our regular guests on our farm for some time. We will see how the situation develops in the next few days and weeks and what can be realized without the experience suffering. For me, that is the most important prerequisite.
Germany has adopted packages of measures to support companies and employees in the catering industry. Short-time work allowances and immediate financial aid are possible. In addition, companies can receive loans from KfW due to the Corona crisis, and there is financial assistance from guarantee banks. How satisfied are you with the government's support measures? To what extent do they help your company and other companies?
LM: To be honest, I never thought I would ever find Bavarian Prime Minister Markus Söder "cool". If someone had told me that recently, I would probably have laughed at him or her. But he has shown real strength in the crisis. I share the view that it was necessary to move quickly at the beginning of the crisis, even though some have criticized Bavaria's decision. But closing everything down as quickly as possible was the only smart reaction. Of course, I also had to apply for emergency aid for my company. The funds were approved by the state after just two weeks. I was really pleasantly surprised. At the federal level, it takes much longer. I can say that I feel very comfortable in Bavaria, even though the Free State is one of the worst hit in Germany by the crisis in terms of the number of corona cases. Like most people, I consider loans to be only an emergency solution. For many catering businesses, it will hardly make sense to accumulate debts during the crisis that they cannot repay anyway. Fortunately, I can suspend my own current loans, including those for the planned outdoor area and the extension of the stables, until December. I think it is very important that companies seek advice from their bank, tax advisor or insurance company as soon as possible, because they know whether they can expect relief and can help them accordingly.
Of course, safety and hygiene measures are also required on site.
The forced closures mean that restaurateurs obviously have to think about how they can reduce costs. But they can also use the time to optimize existing work processes or develop creative marketing ideas. Many are trying to offer a delivery service or sell vouchers online, for example. What measures have you taken yourself and what experiences have you had with them so far? What helpful tips can you give other restaurateurs for the "idle" period?
LM: We are lucky that we can simply postpone events that are already sold out because our customers want to keep the tickets they have bought for the events. People are still in demand. Due to the lockdown, we currently have a lot of wine from our winemakers, coffee, meat and other fine STOI products in stock. On Fridays, our regulars usually pick up their grilled food from us. So we still have demand and an increased supply, which is how the idea for the "STOI Survival Package" came about, which we offer online. The package contains everything that connoisseurs need to "survive" in the crisis. From porterhouse or T-bone steaks to selected wines and spices to the original, red STOI toilet paper. We are almost as famous for the latter as we are for our meat (laughs). People are really keen on the "STOI Survival Package". We sold 25 packages on the Easter weekend alone. So you can see that creative ideas can reach customers even in a crisis. Things are going so well for us that we have decided to set up a STOI shop. It will be a beef, BBQ & wine boutique where customers can get everything they need for a great BBQ. I had previously looked around the supermarkets for good offers for barbecue fans and unfortunately didn't find anything there. They simply don't have what demanding barbecuers, such as FIRE&FOOD readers, need. That's why we want to try to close this gap, if possible without being a direct competitor to others. For us, cooperation plays a crucial role here. We work closely with our partners and look forward to offering their products with us. Quality is always our top priority and our customers appreciate that.
In addition to buying vouchers, private individuals can also support the catering industry through online donation initiatives such as LOKALFREUN.DE. How much solidarity do you and the industry receive from consumers during the crisis?
LM: A lot of solidarity! Our regular customers are loyal to us and have a lot of understanding for our situation. That makes me and my colleagues very happy, of course. I last met my friend Tim Mälzer in Hamburg on March 13th, that was two days before the lockdown. The city was already deserted. When I arrived at the airport, everything was surreal. Of course, on my isolated farm I didn't experience the extent of it so directly. It hits you then. I think it's very important that we are heard in our current situation and that everyone stands up for each other. I myself am taking part in various actions to draw attention to the situation of restaurateurs. On May 8th there was a protest in Straubing. We set up 150 empty chairs on Theresienplatz, from bar stools to wicker chairs. We wanted to draw attention to the diversity of our industry, which is now under threat in the Corona period. The demo was expressly about demanding more support from politicians and society, not about opposing the current Corona measures! We also believe that something needs to change in the long term, for example in terms of sustainability and pricing policy. Cheap products are not a solution for the future. It does matter where our food comes from and what quality it is, even if some people still don't seem to care. Fortunately, more and more consumers share our view. Now, in the crisis, people are experiencing once again how important we are, and we are receiving more appreciation and support.
Communication with guests is essential right now, whether on the phone or via social media. Word-of-mouth and online reviews are more important than ever for the restaurant industry during the crisis. You are active on many channels and very well connected with your partners. Many, primarily small businesses, have a lot of catching up to do in the digital area, which is having a particularly negative impact on them now. How important is it today for a restaurateur or restaurant business to have an online presence and be connected? Do you have any tips for these businesses?
LM: Of course, having an online presence is more important than ever today. But of course it is difficult for small businesses in particular to expand their online marketing from one day to the next. Something like this takes a certain amount of time and it also comes at a price to bring the right experts on board. But most businesses have at least a website or social media channels that they can use for their purposes. The most important thing, as I said, is to stay in close contact with customers and to know or ask about their wishes. If I had to name a successful example for the crisis, I would say: look at how butchers have been doing it for years. Prepare venison ragout and put it in a jar! Restaurants also have the option of pre-cooking food on request and offering it in jars. Best example: One of my customers is a big fan of our lobster soup, so I cooked the soup for him and put it in jars. You can hardly imagine his joy. I'm sure more people will gratefully accept this offer. Of course, you now see many businesses that focus on takeaway and sell currywurst in disposable packaging. But that is certainly not a solution. A sustainable menu and environmentally friendly packaging must be our goal, even in times of crisis. I also believe that you can always get advice from others in the industry if you are unsure yourself. I firmly believe in the solidarity and willingness to cooperate of everyone. You can see how much everyone is growing together and sharing their know-how, and this also applies to the virtual space.
It is already clear that the crisis will force many small and medium-sized companies to file for bankruptcy, despite measures taken. Jobs will be lost. How do you think the catering sector will change? Are there any opportunities or positive lessons that the industry can learn from the Corona crisis?
LM: We will feel the aftermath of this crisis for a long time, no question about it. But I think that the Corona crisis is teaching people how important our industry really is, and that we will experience greater appreciation in society in the future. My brother owns a hotel and I think that the crisis can also represent an opportunity for the catering industry because more people will be vacationing in their own country in the future. I am also thinking of myself. In October I was in Alba, in northern Italy, looking for truffles. In the current situation, I would have reservations about going there, even if the borders were reopened. I am very happy with our German health system and think that many guests feel the same and feel safer here in Corona times. So my brother will very likely have no problems with empty hotel beds. I also believe that digitalization and its possibilities will become more of a focus for many companies in the future, and environmental awareness should always be an issue anyway. We will see. What actually results from the crisis remains to be seen.
Dear Lucki, thank you very much for this interview. Is there a final message you would like to send to people?
LM: My message is: Nothing is more important than health! Everyone's health must be the top priority. We don't have a food shortage in Germany, family celebrations and other events can be postponed, even if it's difficult. Everyone can see that. Support the restaurant owners by buying vouchers or ordering sustainable food from them to eat at home. Hang in there and stick together! Oh yes, and feel free to stop by our new STOI shop when it's ready. We're here for you! Hopefully we'll be back soon with unforgettable events.
Click here to go to Lucki Maurer's STOI shop: https://www.ludwigmaurer.com/stoi-shop/
and to his official homepage: https://www.ludwigmaurer.com/
Source: Photos by Thomas Pfeiffer
