Tuscany has been the dream (travel) destination of many Germans for decades, and under the hands of the so-called "Tuscany faction" since the 1960s many old and abandoned farms have been transformed into private holiday homes. These offered space to try one's hand at being a hobby winemaker during the holiday weeks and to breathe new life into old vines more or less successfully or to cultivate olive trees for the production of one's own oil. All under the watchful eyes of the local Italians, who sometimes found this obvious love for their region and the willingness to spend money on it a little strange. They themselves were less impressed by their homeland, as they knew about the difficulties and harsh conditions when it came to making a living for the whole family through farming. The rest was caused by the worldwide structural change in the agricultural economy, which Italy was not spared from. Many small farmers fell by the wayside and the sale of the inherited farms was often the last option to save at least part of the inheritance. This was especially true in the province of Arezzo, which lies in the eastern part of Tuscany and is thus the furthest from the sea of ​​all the provinces. Not exactly the classic location to attract masses of paying tourists. But that was a long time ago, and now Italians value not only the coastal areas, but also the heart of Tuscany as a holiday region.

Paolo Calvo proudly shows FIRE&FOOD the newly built pigsty

The milk of the water buffalo cows is needed for mozzarella production

Paolo Calvo: fourth-generation estate owner and visionary

Star chef René Kalobius has long succumbed to the dream of owning his own estate in Tuscany. This year he has turned his back on highly decorated gourmet cuisine to devote himself entirely to olive growing. He is doing this very successfully, and gourmets and colleagues alike swear by his olive oil. He also offers barbecue courses on site, which can be combined with excursions into the region to create an enjoyable break lasting several days. Kalobius is well connected, and through him we meet Paolo Calvo, who has led the family legacy to impressive size as a successful visionary. The Fattoria di Rimaggio is an important employer for the municipalities of Pergine Vadarna and Laterina. The main focus is on livestock farming, both for meat and milk production. Successful direct marketing has been built on this: starting with the utilization and further processing of the products produced through to sale in the company's own shops. It is an almost closed cycle and the feed is grown on the associated land. During the conversation, Calvo makes it clear that this structure is an important prerequisite for him in order to have maximum control over the welfare of his animals and all other production steps, which is particularly reflected in the high quality of meat achieved, for which the Fattoria is known in the area and which Kalobius also raves about. Above all, the range of meat on offer is interesting; on average, around 250 calves of different breeds are kept.

Strong Aubrac cattle imported from France

Firstly, of course – and this is due to tradition – the white Chianina cattle, which originally come from the Chiana Valley and are bred to over 90 percent only in Tuscany. Here they are perfectly adapted to the climatic conditions. They are considered the largest domesticated cattle in the world – a fully grown bull can weigh up to 1,800 kilograms. The white giants are extremely good-natured animals and the quality of meat they produce is in great demand in central Italy. Here, the fine meat is inseparably linked to the famous “Bistecca alla Fiorentina”, a type of T-bone steak. It is one of the best types of beef and has its price. The Chianina cattle were bred around 2,300 years ago by the Etruscans, who valued the animals as strong working and transport animals.

Elmar Fetscher, Gilla, Paolo Calvo

This local breed of cattle is joined at the Fattoria by French beef cattle such as Charolais, Aubrac and Limousin. "I buy the calves directly in France with an average weight of around 350 kilograms; this is the only long journey I subject the animals to in their lives. Of course, I could also buy the calves in Italy or Germany, but I am convinced that I can only get the best quality in France," explains Paolo Calvo. The calves are divided into homogeneous groups on the estate and housed in separate rooms for a certain quarantine period. During this phase, they are only fed hay from the farm's own production. After that, fattening begins, during which the hay ration is adjusted to the weight development. After around eight months, the cattle have reached a live weight of 650 to 700 kilograms, then they are slaughtered in the farm's own slaughterhouse and certified with the CE stamp. Calvo shows us around the stables, visibly proud. For a conventional fattening operation, the conditions in which the animals are kept are very appealing, with open stables, lots of light and plenty of air, and the animals all appear clean and healthy. You can see that Calvo believes it is important to treat the animals with respect; they are valuable assets to him.

Spacious stables

The dairy cows are kept in a well-ventilated stable

The feed mixing plant

Fodder cultivation right next to the Fattoria

Florentine biscuit –
Tuscan delight with a world reputation

The Bistecca alla Fiorentina made from Chianina beef is often referred to as the “world’s best steak”. However, such superlatives should always be treated with a healthy dose of skepticism, as it is ultimately all a matter of personal taste. As Chianina beef is a fast-growing animal and therefore does not store much fat in its muscles, its taste and bite are not necessarily comparable to other “world’s best” steaks, such as US beef or Kobe beef. But it doesn’t have to be, as René Kalobius explains: “The Bistecca alla Fiorentina made from Chianina beef is a classic from Tuscany with roast beef and fillet components – a very special kind of porterhouse. For many, especially here in Tuscany, it is considered the best steak in the world. But I see it a little more differently. A Bistecca alla Fiorentina is something special, but for me it is not the best steak in the world. However, it is definitely a "must have" for anyone visiting Tuscany. A worthwhile treat, and always something special for me too - the Bistecca alla Fiorentina from the largest and oldest cow in the world."

Rene with a mighty Chianina T-bone, cut by master butcher Marco Giusti.

Recipe for Bistecca alla fiorentina and orange-fennel salad with honey-mustard vinaigrette by René Kalobius

Ingredients:
• 1 Porterhouse or T-bone of Chianina beef,
approx. 1,600 g
• Olive oil (preferably mine)
• Maldon Salt
• Pepper from the grinder

For the orange fennel salad:
• 2 large fennel bulbs
• 2 organic oranges
• 3 - 4 stalks of flat-leaf parsley
• 4 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp coarse mustard
• 2 tablespoons acacia honey
• 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (preferably mine)
• Salt, pepper, sugar