Jack of all trades star anise

The dried star-shaped fruit of the evergreen star anise tree belongs to the magnolia family and is native to southern China and Vietnam. As an aromatic spice, it pampers the palate and nose and is also a treat for the eyes. While it has only recently become a typical spice for the winter and Christmas season in our country, star anise has been known and appreciated in China for around 5,000 years. In the kitchen, but also in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). During the spread of swine flu, panic buying of star anise drew attention to the spice. This was believed to be due to the influenza drug Tamiflu, which was in demand in many countries to combat the impending pandemic. To produce it, the Swiss company Hoffmann-La Roche needed large quantities of star anise as a base material.

Fruits of the star anise with the pericarp still unwooded from a farm in Quangxi, China (source: fuzheado)

The retail price of star anise had doubled within a month when swine flu first became known. Star anise (Illicium verum) contains shikimic acid, and from this Hoffmann-La Roche, the only company to produce this drug, extracts oseltamivir, which is sold under the trade name Tamiflu. In addition, private individuals increasingly requested star anise to protect themselves against all forms of real flu, although experts pointed out that star anise itself was not effective against influenza. However, the spice is known in our phytopharmaceutical industry as a medicine, and the essential oils work against inflammation, coughs and colds. There are also numerous references in the literature to the effectiveness of star anise for catarrh of the respiratory tract and for digestive problems such as bloating and flatulence, and in traditional Chinese medicine star anise is valued for its strengthening effect on the bronchi, intestines, bladder, kidneys and heart. The main reason for this is anethole - an essential oil and antioxidant that gives star anise its sweet, licorice-like aroma and is extracted from the fruits, leaves and branches of the star anise tree. Star anise is 13 times sweeter than sugar. The star anise tree can be harvested up to three times a year, and the characteristic eight-pointed pods are sold dried, either whole, broken or ground. Whole fruits should be preferred when buying, as they retain their aroma best. They are either crushed in a mortar before use or cooked and removed before serving. In the Orient, unripe fruits are often chewed to combat bad breath. Star anise is considered the most important spice in Chinese cuisine for meat and poultry dishes - no sweetly pickled pork, no Peking duck can do without star anise, and it is also a must in the famous five-spice powder.

Along with anise, fennel, cloves and cinnamon, star anise is one of the so-called "warming" spices in traditional Chinese nutrition, which are simply good for you in the cold season and can warm up those who are shivering. In Chinese cuisine, the correct use of seasonings is extremely important and an art that has developed over thousands of years. Star anise has a special place in this and is often the icing on the cake, even across regional differences, especially in meat dishes. The spice not only has the task of harmonising the taste of the food, but also of taming or eliminating strong fishy or gamey aromas. Controlling the fire is essential for Chinese cooking - and this is where star anise, with its sweetness, comes into its own. In addition to quick frying in a wok at the highest possible temperatures, long simmering on a low flame is a tradition, such as the well-known "Red Cooking". Soy sauce, rice wine and the slowly caramelized sugar give the food its characteristic dark red color, while star anise and cinnamon are crucial for the right seasoning. Star anise should only be used very sparingly, as the seasoning will otherwise dominate the food rather than have a balancing effect, and a bitter note can develop. If you want to try seasoning with star anise outside of Christmas biscuits and mulled wine, you should first experiment with just a piece of the star-shaped fruit capsule and cook or braise it. Little by little, you will get a feel for the special aroma and can increase the dose if necessary. Whether sweet, spicy or salty dishes: star anise gives each variety its own character. Here is a suitable rub for a wintery Christmas barbecue with poultry or game:


Star anise rub

  • 4 star anise
  • 1 tsp coriander seeds
  • 2 tablespoons brown sugar
  • 2 tsp black mustard seeds
  • 1 tsp Sichuan pepper
  • 2 tsp salt

Lightly roast the star anise, Sichuan pepper and fennel seeds in a pan without adding any fat so that the spices develop their full aroma. Then allow to cool slightly and grind together with the cinnamon and cloves in a mortar or with the help of a food processor to a fine powder. Place in a previously boiled and well-dried jar with a screw top and store in a dark, dry place. The 5-spice powder will keep for up to 6 months and will season meat, marinades, pickles, pumpkin dishes and creamy vegetable soups with its spicy, floral aromas.

 

5-spice powder

  • 6 star anise
  • 3 tbsp Sichuan pepper
  • 2 tbsp fennel seeds
  • 1 ½ tbsp cinnamon
  • 2 tbsp cloves

Lightly roast the star anise, Sichuan pepper and fennel seeds in a pan without adding any fat so that the spices develop their full aroma. Then allow to cool slightly and grind together with the cinnamon and cloves in a mortar or with the help of a food processor to a fine powder. Place in a previously boiled and well-dried jar with a screw top and store in a dark, dry place. The 5-spice powder will keep for up to 6 months and will season meat, marinades, pickles, pumpkin dishes and creamy vegetable soups with its spicy, floral aromas.