Törggelen in South Tyrol: Autumnal pleasure hikes with potato dumplings and wine
Bolzano, October 16, 2024: As soon as the vine leaves turn golden yellow, the grapes are harvested and the chestnuts ("Keschtn") are ripe, the Törggelen season begins in South Tyrol. From the beginning of October to the end of November, the cozy farmhouse parlors, where South Tyrolean delicacies are served, open for Törggelen. Traditionally, groups of friends and families meet at this time to hike together and then stop off at one of the popular Buschen and farm taverns.
The term "Törggelen" refers to the "Torggl" (lat. torquere, to turn) - the wooden wine press in the cellars of farmhouses and wineries. In the past, winemakers would wander from Torggl to Torggl and taste each other's fresh musts and young wines. This is where both the custom and the name come from.
Typical dishes
The farming families usually serve their guests a sumptuous, multi-course meal. It often begins with a portion of the home-made South Tyrolean bacon with Schüttelbrot. It continues with delicacies such as homemade Schlutzkrapfen, sour meat and strongly seasoned homemade sausages. A particularly popular speciality is Kartoffelblattlen - thin, crispy fried potato clouds that you top with mild sauerkraut. To finish, there are sweet doughnuts filled with jam, for example. Of course, the "Keschtn" are a must. In the evening, the farmers light the "Keschtnfeuer" (chestnut fire), over which the fresh chestnuts are roasted.
A hearty Törggelen is of course rounded off with a nice selection of South Tyrolean wines. Vernatsch goes well with bacon, Pinot Blanc with Schlutzkrapfen or Chardonnay with potato puffs. The diverse South Tyrolean wine world has the right accompaniment for every dish. Traditionally, two types of "wine" were served with the Törggelen menu: "Suser" - fresh grape must with little alcohol and "Nuier" - partially fermented, red or white "wine". There are a whole range of culinary establishments that are recommended for the Törggele period and beyond. The South Tyrol Wine Consortium has put together a list of all wine producers here , which can also be filtered by culinary offering.
Hiking on the Keschtnweg
The recommended "Keschtnweg" is also dedicated to the shiny, brown nut fruit. The approximately 90 km long long-distance hiking trail leads from the Augustinian Canonry of Neustift near Brixen along the vineyards on the slopes of the Eisack Valley to the Ritten high plateau and down to Terlan. Along the route, farms invite you to taste regional products and buy them directly from the farm. Colorful mixed forests, lush green meadows and impressive chestnut forests - this trail is a wonderful natural experience and particularly attractive when the "Keschtn" are ripe and South Tyrol shows off its colorful autumnal side.
Photos: Copyright IDM Südtirol/Alto Adige | Manuel Ferrigato